Creating Community with Latkes

December 19, 2020

By Zach Marks

In the days leading up to Hanukkah this year, my friends and family lamented that they had to spend the holiday apart. For some, the most difficult change was not being together to make latkes.   

“My daughter and I would typically throw a big Hanukkah party and make the whole house smell like latkes for weeks,” Jean Haskell, a family friend, told me. “Alas, not this year.”

With traditions like these on pause, it has felt to some like there is a hole in the community. Since August, I’ve been organizing online cooking events on Zoom to try to fill that hole through a series called Community Kitchen. We explore a recipe’s history and cultural impact, and then cook and enjoy the dish together, virtually. Last Sunday, the Community Kitchen teamed up with the Forward for a latke making workshop.

I wasn’t sure how receptive folks would be. Some Jewish friends told me they used the same family recipe every year that’s been perfected through generations. Who would tune in to try something new?

More than I could have expected, it turns out. So many that I scrambled to upgrade my Zoom account to accommodate all the attendees. Of the more than two hundred people who joined, many had a long history of making latkes and tuned in hungrier for community than for recipe tips. But there were also novice Jewish cooks and Gentiles excited for their first time making latkes.

Rob Eshman, the Forward’s National Editor and Food Editor, led us through his legendary latke preparation, sharing latke lore and answering audience questions along the way over the background soundtrack of potatoes grating and frying.

“I thought I knew everything there was to latke making,” participant Barbara Ballinger told me after the event, walking me through her mother’s recipe – always from scratch using a hand grater. “But I realized I had more to learn. I didn’t know you’re supposed to save the potato starch liquid when you make them, so that was a miracle – a Hanukkah revelation.”

Many participants were longtime latke lovers who brought their own expertise to share. Indeed, the Jewish tradition of debate was on full display as participants dissected age-old questions such as how to grate, which oil to use, and the best latke toppings – invaluable advice for the beginners.

“It was fun making latkes for the first time properly from scratch, and I loved knowing that I was learning from members of the Jewish community,” said Elizabeth Camacho, a former colleague of mine who momentarily stole the show when her dog Luna appeared on screen to steal a lick of a latke. “I was moved to be with all the elders on the call during a year in which we’ve lost so many. It was wonderful to see them happy, making latkes, listening in and sharing stories with us.”

Indeed, the workshop gave many a chance to revisit their culinary pasts. Ilana Braun, now a grandmother herself, reminisced about her mother frying latkes in schmaltz, or poultry fat.

“In Eastern Europe, you could use the drippings from a goose and then add onions,” Braun exclaimed from her home in Brooklyn, where she has been searching for Kosher butchers who can help her prepare her favorites stuffed chicken neck and jellied chicken feet. “Oh God, it’s delicious!”

The online space for people to cook and talk about food in community imparted joy during what has been a difficult time for many. In between bites of piping hot latkes, Eshman’s wife Rabbi Naomi Levy shared a blessing on the meaning of the holiday this year.

“During the pandemic the message of Hanukkah is courage, hope, strength and perseverance. We all need that sense that we can get through a challenging time. The message of Hanukkah has forever been that we are a resilient people, a courageous people and can make it through these very difficult times,” Levy said, before leading the group in a communal candle lighting and prayer. It was the first Hanukkah blessing many participants had experienced.

“The Rabbi’s message of Hanukkah during the pandemic made me admire the Jewish community and think how I might come from a different community but we have our resiliency in common,” Camacho said.

“Lighting lamps, and the message of celebrating light reminded me of Diwali [the Indian festival of light],” observed Anjali Banthia, who is scheduled to lead the next Community Kitchen with her mother teaching Indian paranthas on January 17. “Of course, I burst into tears during the Rabbi’s mini sermon and had to switch my video off.”

The interfaith nature of the group made the event more powerful for many of the Jews in attendance as well.

“I loved seeing the diversity of people there, the different backgrounds and ages,” Ballinger said. “For me, it’s very important to keep the food traditions alive even if each generation does it differently.”

While it wasn’t quite the same as being in person, Zoom events like this helped keep those traditions alive in this difficult year. “Cooking has been a real family joy for us.” Bollinger said. “I felt if we can’t be together for a Hanukkah party in person, this was the next best thing.”

Every month’s Community Kitchen raises funds for a different cause chosen by the host. Eshman opted to direct donations to World Central Kitchen, which provides food to communities in need -- a reminder that while many of us had to miss out spending the holiday together, our community is strong enough to support others who may be missing more.

“Part of the message of Hanukkah with the oil is the fact that you can make do with very little,” Rabbi Levy said in closing her short sermon by the stovetop. ”We might think we’re running on empty but we can actually make do with very little and persevere.” 

Full video of the Community Kitchen Hanukkah Edition preparing latkes. December 13, 2020.

Legendary Latkes 🕎🔥🥔🥞

Recipe

Makes 15 three-inch latkes

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients
4 medium Russet potatoes
1 medium onion
2 eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
Freshly ground pepper
Canola or grapeseed oil

Directions
1. Pour the oil in a heavy frying pan and place on stove.

2. Grate the potatoes and onion onto a large clean kitchen towel. (You can also do this on the shredding blade of a food processor)

3. Gather up the corners of the towel and twist the potato/onion over a large bowl. Twist tight until liquid streams out. Keep twisting to get out as much liquid as possible. A friend can help, and you can do this in batches if it’s easier.

4. Heat the oil to very hot. Set a couple layers of paper towels on a plate.

5. After a few minutes, gently tip the bowl to let the liquid run off. You should have a layer of potato starch at the bottom. Leave it! Add the potatoes and onion, egg, salt and pepper. Stir very well.

6. When the oil is hot, scoop out a couple tablespoons of batter into the oil and flatten slightly. You want lacy edges and a slightly thicker middle. Don’t overcrowd— the oil should keep sizzling. Cook until well-browned, about 4 minutes, then flip and finish browning.

7. Remove from skillet and let drain on towel while you make more.